First signs are good. lots and lots of locals, slurping, slapping, and feasting. Deep ovens, wafts of heaven.
Braised beef shin, delicate, earthy, and beautifully served.
Then a bubbling ox tail with fungus, chestnuts, and gingko - all traditional elements to help brace your constitution against the chattering winds.
The half duck arrives and is carved expertly at the table. First the skin which you eat dipped in sugar - the textural contrast works well. And the carved morsels of breast meat are served with garlic juice and hoisin sauce.
And finally a clear duck soup with the sweetness of a red date and celery.
All helped along by a very quaffable house wine (Phillipe de Rothschild) and a lovely surprize when the RMB1200 bill is reduced to 1000 because we're paying with Amex. I'll be back!
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