FourInHand

With Chef Colin Fassnidge jumping on the reality tv cooking circuit, the challenge of getting into his FourInHand restaurant in Sydney's Paddington became even more difficult.  I'd assumed way too difficult and so hadn't even bothered trying in recent times.  However, with a friend in from Hong Kong, and the only time to catch up being dinner on a sunday (when just about everywhere is shut), I decided to push my luck.  And sure to be sure at 7pm when we walked through the door, with the slightly oily and ever so comforting scent of suckling pig caressing the room, we knew we were exactly where we were meant to be.

Fassnidge has built his profile on nose to tail feasting.  His servings however are fine dining rather than the hearty plating i remember from previous visits.  With entrees starting at $28 and mains $39, this is definitely a night out rather than a quick bite however the food is good, very good.

His fennel custard wobbles in the bowl of the heavy ceramic plate, dotted with nibs of crunchy hazelnut and chunky, just cooked crab.  There's a zing of Pernod which builds on the fennel and showcases the sweetness of the crab.

After eating some wonderful venison in New Zealand last week, i can't go past Fassnidge's  seared venison (served with parsnip puree and sprout leaves for me instead of the warfarin unfriendly beetroot and cabbage).  It's surprizingly dainty.  Cooked exceedingly well and our choice of Malbec provides just the right undertones.

And, despite my concerns about portions, it was exactly the right amount.