The four metre terracotta warrior stands guard at the towering front entrance to China Republic in Sydney's World Square.  Distracted by the scale, I turn to be embraced by the shadows and sophistication of one of the newest fine chinese cuisine options in the harbour city.

The interior is breathtaking.  Tactile walls invite caresses.  Projected art works swirl and mesmerise.  But claiming centre stage are the two purpose-built Peking Duck ovens, huge earthen caverns with flames licking at scarlet ducks.  Despite the activity in the kitchen and the army of chefs, there is a calm control.  

Peking Duck is just one of the signature dishes nominated by Chef Yu as worthy of inclusion on his showcase Top 10 Menu.  The Kung Pao chicken is sweet, and tender with the flash of chilli underscored by a complex earthy sauce.  The sweet and sour pork ribs banish thoughts of the battered version served in Chinese takeaway across the country.  The meat is served in bite-size pieces on the bone.  It's juicy in that finger-licking way that ribs should be.

The downstairs space is large - in fact the restaurant has capacity for 250 - but the space is managed well with a diversity of seating options from the kitchen porn bench through to a very grand red table guaranteed to please those keen to be the centre of attention.  

Curve your way up an imposing staircase to the private rooms, each complete with a bamboo handcrafted scale model of part of the Forbidden City imperial palaces.  If you look really closely you might even find a teeny tiny Pu Yi!

I was lucky enough to be there as part of a launch banquet.  From the crunch of cold cucumber salad, and fabulous cold eggplant salad, through to delicate poached white chicken served in a tangy lemon sauce, and spectacular Peking Duck served in the traditional manner, China Republic is a feast for the senses.  

delicate white chicken with tangy lemon sauce

succulent finger-licking sweet and sour ribs

cold eggplant - a tapestry of taste and texture

tofu

Chef Yu working his magic

kapow wow - kung pao chicken

and last but not least - dumplings shanghai style

China Republic is Shop 10.41 World Square Shopping Centre - access via the stairs on the corner of George and Goulburn. Open for Lunch and Dinner 7 days a week

Xindalu, Xindalu, now we are here....

No views but a beautifully temple like fit out in the ground floor of the Hyatt on the Bund which is worth dragging yourself across town for.  Xindalu has a reputation for Shanghai's best duck which may or may not be true but it's consistently wow-factor and one of the many great places i'd dined when last in Shanghai which i wanted to share with my fellow gourmands, particularly as the best possible hangover recovery joint.  Why?  it's zen, it's calming, the food is incredible, and the value is amazing.  (as it turns out they're apparently not used to the australian capacity to drink and my recommendation to dine here in the evening results in the kitchen and bar shutting before the table is quite ready...but for lunch!)

Just 3 of us arrive on time for our booking and we take the initiative to order entrees....  bean curd rolls with chrysthamum sprigs; delicate braised five spice beef shank and coriander served thinly sliced and just warm; an addictive braised chicken in a delicate broth listed on the menu as "shredded chicken with coriander" although it arrives with 1 sprig is a must eat; crispy river eel, with sweet and sour sauce...

The cold pork with garlic is also worth a space on the table along with the Shanghai buns

 crunch base, soft doughy surrounds, and balanced spiced meaty filling.

Shrimp dumplings - danced across the plate and the palate.

And the duck was just as good as last time.  crackling duck skin, succulent duck breast, and perfect pancakes.  

 
This is the perfect quiet lunch venue - normally they have a good aussie pinot grigio on the menu (last time there were also some great french wines but none were available this time). 

Where's my piano? Fu 1088 old style Shanghai

Fu 1088 (375 Zhenning Lu by Yuyuan Lu) is a step back to Shanghai in the glory of the 1930s and a fitting choice to celebrate our return to this magical city.  Unfortunately, we don't end up in the mansion where I got to dine when last here (with the personal pianists).  Instead, we're ushered into the building next door and installed in the front room.  From the dusty pink rose wallpaper to the mahogany furniture, scalloped light shade, and comfy leather lounge (with antimacassars), this a room plucked through time.

The journey begins.

Pea starch noodles rolled with wild vegetables and a sesame sauce.  Pretty, celadon, gelatinous tubes of pea starch cup finely chopped spinach and sesame. I loved it but was not joined in my enthusiasm by the rest of the table...

Shredded beancurd with coriander is a hit, as are the waffle cones of diced tuna and mango (which i didn't try as i was too busy hoovering the crispy eel strips with sweet chili sauce before the others discovered their crunchy goodness).   Then, tea smoked egg with caviar.  The yolk of the egg is just set, cradled in smokey white, with bursts of caviar

I love eel done this way - crunchy eel with a sticky sweet chili sauce.  If you ever get the chance, just do it.  This was the first time for eel consumption for many of my fellow diners and once on the slippery trail (get it?), there's no going back.

Crispy boneless chicken with spring onions and chili was good, as was the sauteed duck with baked sesame pie (another of my must trys for here as they were brilliant last time)..  The duck is tender, seasoned beautifully and served in short pastry slippers coated in sesame.

But the absolute winner of the dish was succulent braised hunks of beef served in a "black pepper sauce with a honey mustard".  I'd skipped over it in the money, skeptical of the mustard/sauce combination, but it was truly remarkable.

just quietly, the shallot cakes were also pretty good!

  Downside - the wine list was depleted with all the good listed French wines not available and bizarre (export) Aussie wines the alternate.  We settled on the "Royal Monastery" Shiraz from Barossa (but clearly not a domestic label)