Mission Accomplished

My last day in Buenos Aires and, despite looking promising, my lunch choice didn't quite deliver.

this is in the street parallel to Defensa just across from the Mercanto in San Telmo.  Dish of the Day 24 pesos (that's 6 dollars) for a choice of 3 (vegetarian) dishes.  The bread, just steaming and crumbly warm out of the oven came with salt and rosemary or an onion topping that must have been marinated in milk to take the sharpness out so that it was still crunchy but very mild.  the dip, a creamy carrot with just a little fennel.  the pasta, a carrot fettucini ( i know, go figure, which is why i chose it coz I didn't think it would work) was lovely and light but drowning in a very creamy and rich 4 cheese sauce.  Given I'd walked BA for four hours this morning, I was quite hungry so decided to abandon a bad choice and give it another go.

 Almost on the corner of Moreno and Defensa, is a great deli.  Lots of great looking cheese and meat but unfortunately my hunger and their opening hours haven't coincided.  They only sell 4 empanadas at a go. Wish I'd had some way of heating them up because they weren't quite right cold (but made for a lovely pic) and were disappointingly greasy even cold.


So, with just a little money still burning a hole in my pocket, I ventured forth to tango shoe heaven.  Lolo Gerard is apparently the place to go.  If you look closely, you can see the smear of my nose pressed against the window.  Went half way across town only to find the shop shut!  Luckily my intrepid cab driver, Ernesto, wasn't about to let a woman cry in anguish of what might have been and he tracked the owner down (who was having lunch a block away) and I bought the white and black shoes which are front and centre (handcrafted shoes for $70!).

So, two wedding proposals later, and yet another attempt to find a classy bar other than a hotel lobby for a drink between 5 and 7, I retreat back to the hotel to caress my shoes, and plan my attack for tonight. 

But first a drink and a good empanada coz, god damn it, my last empanada experience is going to be a good one! my window is open, and the sounds of the street are flooding in, traffic blends with singing (these Portenos sing a lot with vigour anywhere anytime) and tango music, with the occasional peal of church bells.  the curtains just flapping in the gentle breeze.  and then my stomach rumbles so time to go!  Ciao

best Buenos Aires empanada so far - Las Delicias (and the malbec was pretty good too...)

Buenos Aires Magic

Am in the process of transferring across previous posts but I am overwhelmed by Buenos Aires.  The architecture, the beauty, the food (OMG the food!) and the wine. 

We've been in BA for just almost a week now and have had some magical food.  Have managed to stumble across some gems - sensational rabbit stew and garlic prawns last night in Cafe San Juan, San Juan 452, in San Telmo;  best empanadas yet at Las Delicias, Quintana 380 stuffed with spicy beef, egg, peas in a flaky flaky pastry; Andeluna Reserva Malbec washing it all down.

Not sure how the Portenos manage to stay as thin as they are given the size of the servings (and it's nigh on impossible to leave any behind right ;))

Havent had a chance to try the pressed duck at the Marriott's Belle Epoque Menu but did get to play with the duck press (all fingers still intact just).  choice now is a nanna nap or an empanada challenge...  wonder which one will win?