FourInHand

With Chef Colin Fassnidge jumping on the reality tv cooking circuit, the challenge of getting into his FourInHand restaurant in Sydney's Paddington became even more difficult.  I'd assumed way too difficult and so hadn't even bothered trying in recent times.  However, with a friend in from Hong Kong, and the only time to catch up being dinner on a sunday (when just about everywhere is shut), I decided to push my luck.  And sure to be sure at 7pm when we walked through the door, with the slightly oily and ever so comforting scent of suckling pig caressing the room, we knew we were exactly where we were meant to be.

Fassnidge has built his profile on nose to tail feasting.  His servings however are fine dining rather than the hearty plating i remember from previous visits.  With entrees starting at $28 and mains $39, this is definitely a night out rather than a quick bite however the food is good, very good.

His fennel custard wobbles in the bowl of the heavy ceramic plate, dotted with nibs of crunchy hazelnut and chunky, just cooked crab.  There's a zing of Pernod which builds on the fennel and showcases the sweetness of the crab.

After eating some wonderful venison in New Zealand last week, i can't go past Fassnidge's  seared venison (served with parsnip puree and sprout leaves for me instead of the warfarin unfriendly beetroot and cabbage).  It's surprizingly dainty.  Cooked exceedingly well and our choice of Malbec provides just the right undertones.

And, despite my concerns about portions, it was exactly the right amount.

Hark the Herald Angels Sing - Christmas in July at the Three Weeds

The winds are howling and Sydney is about to experience one of it's coldest nights in a year, so the timing is perfect for the first of the Weeds' Christmas Dinner in July extravaganzas.  And what a feast!  Crackers cracked, party hats on, jokes shared (why did the bacon laugh? coz the egg cracked a yolk! #boomtish), and now time to sit back and revel in Chef Leigh McDivitt's playful journey through all things Yule,

It's a fun menu, kicking off with "Shall We Start", a beautifully balanced ceviche of kingfish with just a little hint of chili in the dressing and horseradish ice-cream.  Hidden in the dish are tiny, teeny croutons which pop in your mouth.  (I hate kingfish so Leigh very kindly substituted scallops).  The matched Prosecco di Conegliano was perfect.

 A Partridge in a Pear Tree is my favourite course (only just edging out the venison).  Delicate roasted breast of partridge nestles on pearl barley risotto, with an amazing cloak of sauce (pear, partridge stock) and wild mushrooms. It's served with a chablis 07 Denis Pommier ‘Côte du Léchet’, Chablis Premier Cru, Burgundy, France.  Heaven.

Chef Leigh McDivitt loves Pork (having being named a Porkstar no less) and his talent with pig shines through in A Cheeky Pork Dish.  There's a morsel of luscious sticky braised tail, confit of pork cheek, crunchy crackling, sweet yabbie tails and a cider jus.  I love the wine matched with this - the 07 Lucien Muzard et Fils, Santenay ‘Gravieres’, 1er Cru .  (probably loved that wine a little too much given i'm wishing today were Boxing Day not Friday ....but gees it was good)

 I love venison and In the Brambles is a close runner for the best course tonight.  It's a beautiful plate.  just cooked full apart in your mouth venison, beautiful beads of baby beetroot, dainty chocolate tuille, and a rich madeira jus.  And it's kicked along by a fine gutsy Chàteauneuf-du-Pape, the 06 Domaine la Barroche "Terroir"

 The Christmas puns continue.... On the fifth day of Christmas, my true love gave to me...FIIIIVEE GOLLLDDENNN RINGGGSSS ..  well actually here it is:

a little treasure trove with a plump currant inside the gold leaf, and sweet golden raspberries in a ganache and currant curd....  and then (pick me up off the)  Christmas Floor, deconstructed christmas pud.  Eggnog sphere (which i eat all in one go first) is supposed to be broken to ooze over the soil, and the wonderful maraschino jellies....ps the candied tarragon is devine!

And last but not least, Strathdon Ruaraidh Stone Surprise.  A whimsical blue bavarois, with parmesan cream and a fennel biscuit - it was a little sweet for a savoury tooth like mine but my preference for cheese didn't stop me eating it all so i guess, as they say, the proof really is in the pudding!

This is a finely balanced menu which delights in its innovation and pairings.  Leigh McDivitt and his team continue to go from strength to strength and the Christmas in July menu at just $100 per person ($165 with wine) is a real opportunity to experience the magic without breaking the bank.

ps i was hoping that there would be an appearance from the kitchen of 10 lords a leaping but maybe next time ;)