Shangai's best duck? Xindalu in Hyatt on the Bund

The Hyatt on the Bund has a reputation for Shanghai's best roast duck.  And, as this was going to be our last meal in Shanghai for a while, the pressure was on.

First signs are good.  lots and lots of locals, slurping, slapping, and feasting.  Deep ovens, wafts of heaven.

 Each sitting, in season, there's a limited number of another of the house specialities.  Just 10 dishes of chrysthamum sprouts are served and we scored!  Like tiny little perfect cigarellos served with a very sweet vinegar and wrapped in a fine bean curd sheet.  Delicious (and i think our first fresh veggies for the week?)

Braised beef shin, delicate, earthy, and beautifully served.

Then a bubbling ox tail with fungus, chestnuts, and gingko - all traditional elements to help brace your constitution against the chattering winds. 

 The half duck arrives and is carved expertly at the table.  First the skin which you eat dipped in sugar - the textural contrast works well.  And the carved morsels of  breast meat are served with garlic juice and hoisin sauce.

And finally a clear duck soup with the sweetness of a red date and celery.

All helped along by a very quaffable house wine (Phillipe de Rothschild) and a lovely surprize when the RMB1200 bill is reduced to 1000 because we're paying with Amex.  I'll be back!


 

traditional Shanghai - Chuns

If you're looking for the Shanghai equivalent of a speak easy, eating in a very traditional way, try to book in to Chuns.  It took a fairly spirited discussion to convince the concierge that we really really did want to eat here - it's an extension of a family home, serving what ever is best from the markets to the tiny front room which seats 16 at a pinch.

For 200 RMB, and the fun of trying to work out what we were eating, Chuns is worth the effort.

 First up, finger licking good soy braised duck, potato puree with spring onions, cabbage and horseradish, sauteed shredded vegetables with shitake and fungus in a sweetish sauce, and stewed bean curd with gingko and fungus.

 Crunchy deep fried salty river prawns and then a deep fried whole fish with XO sauce

  And to finish a fantastic chicken soup, oily and delicate and warming with bamboo soups.  Flu begone!

 Our experience was made even more enjoyable thanks to the hospitality of a neighbouring table visiting from San Fran who were back visiting relatives - definitely helped us understand the menu!

traditional Shanghai - Fu 1088

One of the things that most excites me about travelling is the joy of stumbling across somewhere so unexpectedly good that you're lost for words. Shanghai's Fu 1088 is hidden away in a converted mansion in the french quarter is a true find.


The rooms are furnished with heavy teak furniture and, when we're seated at a very grand table for 16 complete with thrones, a baby grand and our very own personal pianist (albeit tracksuit clad), we know it's going to be a night to remember.  The wine list is impressive, the staff are working hard to help us understand our food options, and there's the tinkle of what just might be a bit of Barry Manilow coming from the ivories.


We choose
Crispy Eel strips with sweet chili sauce (38 RMB)
Tea smoked egg and caviar (18 pp)
Sauteed "Ba Bao" meat (68)
Sauteed minced duckling with mince sesame pie (68) - worth ordering for the spoked wheel on which the sesame pie shell slippers are served for you to fill
sauteed garden greens with garlic (38)
Pan-fried shanghai vegetarian dumplings with black (chinese) truffle (3 pieces for 36)


Thank you Fu 1088 for a truly memorable evening in Shanghai