Mao's hometown of Shaoshan in the Hunan province which is famous for its hot spicy flavours and fresh ingredients is celebrated in Shanghi's Di Shui Dong.
It's not flash but it's full of life. Up the stairs, into the open plan space. It's noisy, full of blue and white check table cloths but it smells as amazing as it did last time. This is the site of what i think might be the most amazing fried rice i have ever eaten (followed closely though by the seafood restaurant harbourside on Cheung Sha Island). it's smokey, full of flavour, and highly addictive.
the fried rice is hiding behind the chicken stew (in the black iron pot) which was finger licking good. To the right - Mao's Favourite Shrimp (RMD54). Deheaded decent sized prawns served with deep fried chili, crispy tails and just cooked bodies which need to be eaten in one go. sensational. crunchy, shrimpy, not-nearly-as-hot-as-you'd-expect (really!). Grandma Tofu is also spicy but balanced. tsing dao a must however at this stage.
I also loved the cold pork with garlic - guaranteed to keep colds, flu, and kissers away (18RMD - that's under 3 aussie dollars!)
Suan Cai is a traditional pickled Chinese cabbage - we choose it served with fried bamboo and it's delicious. As is the smoked tofu (10RMB!), the shredded pumpkin, and the sweet and sour lotus roots (20RMB)
We finish with a perfectly cooked whole madarin fish served with "a ketchup sauce". It arrives on its belly, swimming in a sweet, chili, tomato sauce base. the flesh flakes away, the sauce is fantastic.
TIP - don't even bother looking at the wine list - go straight to the beers. The staff are amazing but if you have food requirements, make sure you have them written down as there's limited opportunity for on-floor translation
If you're looking for the Shanghai equivalent of a speak easy, eating in a very traditional way, try to book in to Chuns. It took a fairly spirited discussion to convince the concierge that we really really did want to eat here - it's an extension of a family home, serving what ever is best from the markets to the tiny front room which seats 16 at a pinch.
For 200 RMB, and the fun of trying to work out what we were eating, Chuns is worth the effort.
First up, finger licking good soy braised duck, potato puree with spring onions, cabbage and horseradish, sauteed shredded vegetables with shitake and fungus in a sweetish sauce, and stewed bean curd with gingko and fungus.
Crunchy deep fried salty river prawns and then a deep fried whole fish with XO sauce
And to finish a fantastic chicken soup, oily and delicate and warming with bamboo soups. Flu begone!
Our experience was made even more enjoyable thanks to the hospitality of a neighbouring table visiting from San Fran who were back visiting relatives - definitely helped us understand the menu!
