Spent yesterday strolling through San Telmo, the old city. Very french and very quaint. Cobbled streets, ornate street fronts, lots of churches and fantastic antique shops full of marble figures, grand dining sets (Sevres and Limoges), chandeliers etc all echoing the wealth and indulgence of times gone by.
Started day with coffee in Cafe Dorrego, and a ubiquitous ham and cheese toasty. Not sure how old the cafe is but it felt like stepping into a Paris salon in the early 1800s. Dark wood bar, burnished coffee machine, lots of little argentinian men hugging their coffees (or perhaps I was just projecting) Next stop Merchanto fresh fruit and vegetables bursting off the shelves just like the market in florence. Second breakfast La Poesie, a literary cafe. Coffee and strudel give us a kick along til... Lunch!
Petanque is Paris bistro with laid back argentinian service. Plat fixe lunch @ 45 peso ($12!) Egg florentine and grilled fish. A glass of rose and then malbec. Temptation to stretch out and sleep on park bench strong. But we rally - more shops to find as we continue on the quest for tango shoes!
The hotel I'm shifting to on sat, moreno, is close by. Art deco, stunning plus I have a loft room for $125 a night! My god its already 4 and wine time. Back to hotel to dress for dinner - someone elses choice in paddington. Boring boring food. But then the best part! Back to Marriott ship bar. Restaurant next door is doing a Belle Epoque menu to celebrate 100 years and they do, ta da, pressed duck!! And they have a brass duck press which I have them demonstrate. Luckily the diners appreciate my enthusiasm ;) and start buying me wine. Late late night, sleep in til 9 and now off to Racoletto. What's for brekkie?
and the winner is the fixed price lunch for around 65 pesos (that's $16 AUD!). Egg Florentine, perfectly cooked egg with runny middle, perched in a nest of spinach heaven, with just a hint (well from argentinian standards) of gruyere and white sauce
not sure what the fish is (described by waiter as being like flounder but fatter) grilled, on tiny little baby tomatoes and potatoes. not so sure about the rosemary cause the sauce had dill through it but the rest was just right (and so non-beefy!)
proof that salads do exist in the Land of Meat
